It was late June, right around the start of the rainy season, and the weather was damp and humid. I had an appointment in Seochon(서촌) later in the evening, but before that, I headed over to Hannam-dong(한남동) to check out the ‘Alex Katz’ exhibition I’d been curious about. Since Thaddaeus Ropac is perched high up on Dokseodang-ro(독서당로) hill, I strongly recommend taking a bus or a taxi up. I once tried walking up from the bottom, and let’s just say it was quite a workout!
Thaddaeus Ropac Seoul
- Address: 1st and 2nd Floors, 122-1, Dokseodang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
- Hours: 10:00 – 18:00 (Closed on Sundays and Mondays)
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ThaddaeusRopac/
- Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)
I finally arrived at the gallery. The main entrance of Thaddaeus Ropac is on the second floor, so I headed straight up the stairs to check out the ‘Mind’s Eye’ exhibition featuring works by ‘Han Bing, Megan Rooney, and Joan Snyder first’. Even though it was a Saturday morning, it was peaceful and uncrowded, making it a great time to browse. Afterward, I went through the side door down to the first-floor exhibition room, which was hosting the ‘Alex Katz’ works I came to see. Since the short walkway connecting the door to the stairs is exposed to the outdoors—and I had left my umbrella at the 2nd-floor entrance—I ended up catching a light sprinkle of rain. Thankfully, it wasn’t a heavy downpour!
To share a brief thought: I sometimes wondered if seeing Alex Katz‘s vibrant, bright works under a strikingly blue, clear sky would have felt even better. But strangely, encountering those colorful paintings against gloomy, rainy weather created a striking contrast that gave me a subtle, fluttering excitement. There weren’t a ton of pieces on display, which only left me more curious about his other works. I ended up spending quite a long time flipping through the exhibition catalog provided in the room before finally heading out.
Esther Schipper Seoul
- Address: 24, Hannam-daero 46-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
- Hours: 11:00 – 18:00 (Closed on Sundays and Mondays)
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/estherschippergallery
- Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)
Since I was already in Hannam-dong, I decided to drop by another gallery, Esther Schipper. No special reason—I just happened to see a photo of the exhibition online and became too curious not to see it in person. Taking a bus from Thaddaeus Ropac, I got off at Hangangjin Station(한강진역), crossed the big pedestrian crosswalk (following Naver Map), passed by Woolf Social Club, and walked through a quiet alleyway I’d never explored before. Winding past quiet villas, small clothing boutiques, and local shops on the way to the gallery turned out to be a really fun journey.
There was a single artwork right at the gallery entrance before heading up to the second floor where the main exhibition began. I caught ‘CELLULAR MEMORY‘ by ‘Merikokeb Berhanu’. Featuring a total of six pieces inspired by traditional Ethiopian primary colors, the palette was intensely bold yet remarkably harmonious—the kind of paintings that have stayed with me long after leaving. To be honest, the exhibition space is quite small, so I’d recommend dropping by if you’re already in the neighborhood rather than making it your sole destination.
Nothing Written
- Address: 14-5, Hannam-daero 40-gil, Nothing Written, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
- Hours: 11:00 – 20:00 (Closed on Mondays)
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nothingwritten.kr
- Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)
Maybe this whole day was just a continuous chain of “while I’m in the area” moments. While navigating to Esther Schipper, I spotted several nearby shops I’d previously saved on Naver Map. Since I rarely venture up to the upper parts of Hannam-dong (where Esther Schipper is located) unless I have a specific meetup there, I figured I should explore everything while I had the chance. My next stop was the clothing brand Nothing Written.
On the way there, I quickly peeked into well-known ceramic shops like JISEUNGMIN CERAMICS and IAAC Craft before finally arriving at Nothing Written. If I’d had more time, I would’ve grabbed a cup of coffee right next door at Cafe Corner, but I settled for browsing the showroom with a hint of lingering regret.
I’ve always loved Nothing Written‘s clothing style, but I’d been dying to see their showroom space in person ever since seeing photos of it on Instagram. It was so much fun taking in all the little architectural and interior details up close. With Nothing Written, LLEGE right across the street, RECTO, and plenty of other Korean designer showrooms scattered around the Hangangjin Station area, spending a full day exploring Hannam-dong and Itaewon is a fantastic choice if you’re into fashion.
Safe travels, Soy Kim
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