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Like a Local in Gahoe-dong & Samcheong-dong: A 5-Hour Route for Mandu, Craft Museum, and Cafes

Bysoykim

I thought it would be interesting to share how I spend my time in Seoul —whether alone, with friends, or with family. This is a glimpse into how a local actually moves around the city and what it might feel like from a traveler’s perspective.

While the weather in Seoul can be quite unpredictable lately, March usually brings days that are perfect for walking. This day was one of them. After a chilly winter, the sky was clear blue, and the weather was beautiful. As soon as I stepped out of Anguk Station, I knew today was a day for a long walk.

My main destination was the Seoul Museum of Craft Art in Samcheong-dong. My original plan was to arrive at 10:00 AM (opening time) and follow the route: Museum – Lunch – Cafe. However, because we met a bit later than planned, the schedule changed to: Lunch – Museum – Cafe. 

A quick tip: I highly recommend sticking to the original plan and starting with the museum early. On Saturdays, it gets very crowded, making it difficult to enjoy the exhibitions at a relaxed pace.

For lunch, we debated between Anam (국밥 : Gukbap) and Kkangttong Mandu (칼만두 : Kalmandu) and eventually decided on Kkangttong Mandu. (Side note: If you love cilantro, I strongly recommend Anam. It’s one of my favorite restaurants.)

Kkangttong Mandu (깡통만두)
  • Address: 5-6 Bukchon-ro 2-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
  • Price: Kalmandu 10,000 KRW / Bibim-guksu 12,000 KRW
  • Hours: 11:30 – 21:00 (Break time on weekdays / Closed on Sundays)
  • Waiting: https://www.catchtable.net/shop/kkangttong  / Foreign tourists can use the CatchTable Global app for remote queuing.
  • Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)
Anam (안암)
  • Address: 10 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
  • Price: Anam Gukbap 12,000 KRW / Boiled Pork (Half) 11,000 KRW
  • Hours: 11:30 – 21:00 (Break time on Mon, Tue, Wed)
  • Waiting: Register at the kiosk in front of the restaurant. Foreigners can register by entering an email address.
  • Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)

The restaurant opened at 11:30 AM, and since we had about 15 minutes to spare, we decided to drop by OIMU. If you want to buy unique, Korean-style souvenirs, I highly, highly recommend visiting OIMU. Ever since I discovered this place, it has been my top priority whenever I need to buy gifts for my foreign friends.

OIMU (오이뮤)

Yes, Korea is a “nation of waiting.” I should have checked CatchTable(app) to see if the waitlist had started, but I overlooked it. Passing through the narrow alleys, I didn’t expect so many people to already be gathered in front of the restaurant. We hurriedly joined the waitlist and decided to explore the neighborhood since the weather was so nice. (In the end, we waited for 1 hour and 30 minutes.)

A more efficient strategy: Put your name on the restaurant’s waitlist first, then visit OIMU and explore the nearby alleys while waiting for your turn!


Kkangttong Mandu Remote Waiting: CatchTable Global Link

While walking, we happened upon the Gahoe-dong Community Center(가회동 주민센터), where a local event with traditional Tteok-me-chigi (떡메치기: rice cake pounding) was taking place. It had been such a long time since I’d seen it that I had to stop for a closer look. They were also selling Kimchi-jeon (김치전: kimchi pancakes) nearby. If it wasn’t right before lunch, I might have bought one with a glass of Makgeolli (막걸리).

As I wandered past the community center, I found myself in a quiet alley filled with Hanoks, with Namsan Tower visible in the distance. For a moment, I felt like a traveler in my own city. I’m linking a small workshop I stepped into called Saeksil-munyang-nubi Workshop(Traditional Quilt Workshop).

SSaeksil-munyang-nubi Workshop (색실문양누비공방)
  • Address: 17 Bukchon-ro 12-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
  • Map: Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)

Returning to the main street, I headed to Low Roof, one of my favorite cafes in this neighborhood. I had noticed earlier that the doors to Hwigyeomjae (휘겸재: the traditional Hanok connected to the cafe) were wide open. (You can enjoy your coffee inside Hwigyeomjae on days with good weather and no scheduled weddings.) Being able to drink coffee at Hwigyeomjae on a beautiful Saturday was a truly lucky moment.

While Low Roof has plenty of indoor space, I personally love the outdoor seats. I have fond memories of watching the crowds on a rainy day in May from the 1st-floor outdoor seats, and spending time inside the Haengnang-chae (annex) of Hwigyeomjae in early summer was also a lovely, private experience. I also wanted to mention this place because their desserts are unique, incorporating Korean ingredients and elements.

Low Roof (로우루프)
  • Address: 46-1 Bukchon-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
  • Hours: 10:00 – 20:00 (Closed on Mondays)
  • Instagram: @cafe_lowroof
  • Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)

I grabbed a table in the Haengnang (annex) courtyard and had a quick espresso since the wait for lunch was still ongoing. Between 12:00 PM and 1:00 PM (peak lunch hour), the cafe was actually quite empty and peaceful—a perfect time to space out and relax at Hwigyeomjae.

Finally, the time came. Lunchtime! After joining the waitlist at 11:30 AM, we were finally able to enter at 1:00 PM. We both ordered the Kalmandu (칼만두: a combination of noodles and Mandu). Each bowl came with three types of dumplings: meat, kimchi, and seafood.

The mandu and the ox bone broth were not overpowering but had a clean, savory taste that paired perfectly with the neatly served side dishes. I finished the entire bowl, savoring every spoonful as I alternated between the hearty dumplings and the silky noodles. It was a meal that made the long wait feel completely worth it.

With full stomachs, we arrived at the Seoul Museum of Craft Art(SeMoCA) a little after 2:00 PM. It’s about a 7-minute walk from Kkangttong Mandu. It seemed everyone had headed to the museum after lunch; it was so crowded that we had to wait in line from the 1st floor to get to the 3rd. Since there is no admission fee, you can just walk in or join the queue without visiting a ticket booth.

Seoul Museum of Craft Art (서울공예박물관)

The exhibition I went to see was a special donation exhibition by artist Keum Ki-suk(금기숙) titled “Dancing, Dreaming, Enlightening,” featuring fashion art. Besides special exhibitions, the permanent collections—covering the history of Korean craft, embroidery, and Bojagi (보자기)—are fascinating and well worth a visit.

By the time we left the museum, it was around 3:00 PM. On weekends, most cafes are usually full by this time. Since I didn’t have much time left before saying goodbye to my friend, we looked for cafes nearby. Our candidates were ‘Komfortabel Anguk’ and ‘Rewind Seoul’.

Komfortabel Anguk (콤포타블 안국)
Rewind Seoul (리와인드 서울)
  • Address: 33 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, 2F
  • Hours: 10:00 – 19:00
  • Instagram: @rwndseoul
  • Map: Google Maps | Naver Map (Recommended for navigation in Korea)

‘Rewind Seoul’ is famous for its floor-to-ceiling windows offering a direct view of the Craft Museum. However, when we arrived, it was packed with people, and the atmosphere felt a bit stuffy and noisy, so we left immediately. Still, it’s a place I’d like to try again on a quiet weekday.

So, what did we do? Luckily, the weather was nice enough to allow for a “Plan B.” We grabbed takeout coffee from the cafe inside the museum (located right next to the gift shop) and sat on the benches in front of the museum. The breeze was gentle, and the sound of busking music nearby made for a truly wonderful time. If you have the energy, you could also take a stroll through the Songhyeon Green Plaza(열린송현녹지광장)’ right in front or walk further along the streets of Samcheong-dong with your coffee.

Safe travels, Soy Kim

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