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Seoul’s Best Kept Secret: A Guide to Jeongdong-gil and Shin-ah Memorial Hall

Bysoykim

After failing to find a cafe to settle into in Samcheong-dong(삼청동), Seochon(서촌), and Gyeongbokgung(경복궁) / (A Saturday Art Walk in Seoul: Exploring Gallery Mosoon, PKM Gallery, and Kong Gallery), I aimlessly made my way down toward Gwanghwamun(광화문). I passed Coffeest near Gyeonghuigung(경희궁), and then Alegria(coffee roasters), which I often visit when I’m alone, but after confirming that both were full, I decided to just keep walking.

Actually, I might have given up on looking for a cafe at that point. Since the weather was so nice for a walk, I decided to head toward Jeongdong-gil (정동길) through the side path behind Deoksugung (덕수궁)and Path of Gojong (고종의 길) & Jeongdong 1928 Art Center. I had already set aside any expectations of finding an empty seat in a Jeongdong-gil cafe.

Coffeest 
Path of Gojong (+Residence of the Executives of Chosen Savings Bank) 
  • Address: 83 Deoksugung-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul
  • Hours: Mar – Oct (Summer) 9:00 – 18:00 / Nov – Feb (Winter) 9:00 – 17:30
  • Maps: Google Maps | Naver Map(Recommended for navigation in Korea)

I really like this side path. I’m not sure why. I even have to walk up a bit of a hill, but regardless, I might just love the fact that crossing this road from Gwanghwamun leads me to Jeongdong-gil. Jeongdong-gil is lined with red brick buildings, giving the street a beautiful old-world charm that shifts with the seasons. Among them, I love Jeongdong-gil in the summer, where the harmony of lush green trees and red brick buildings is beautiful. You can also find busking performances or magic shows happening in various spots.

As a side note, there was a superstition that a couple would break up if they walked the Deoksugung Stone Wall Path together (as the site of the Seoul Museum of Art was originally the Supreme Court and Family Court), but unlike the superstition, I am someone who thinks Jeongdong-gil is a romantic path.

Upon arriving at Jeongdong-gil, it suddenly occurred to me that I should visit the shops in Shin-ah Memorial Hall that I hadn’t been to yet—since I was already there. Also, because Gallery Mosoon from my previous post was originally located in Shin-ah Memorial Hall, it was a place that naturally came to mind.

Shin-ah Memorial Hall in Summer

Shin-ah Memorial Hall was built in the 1930s and is designated as National Registered Cultural Heritage (No. 402) in recognition of its value in modern architectural technology history. This building was first the headquarters of the American company “Singer Sewing Machine,” also known by the nickname “Jolly House” as a hangout for diplomats at the time.

It was then purchased by Shin-ah Ilbo(신아일보), Korea’s first commercial newspaper, in 1963. In 1975, the 3rd and 4th floors were added to be used as an annex, and in 1980, it faced a forced closure as it was forcibly merged into Kyunghyang Shinmun(경향신문) by the military regime’s media consolidation measure. Currently, it houses offices and commercial facilities along with the memorial hall.

Shin-ah Memorial Hall
  • Address: 33 Jeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul (Shin-ah Ilbo)
  • Maps: Google Maps | Naver Map(Recommended for navigation in Korea)

Leaving the brief introduction of this place at that, I first went up to the 2nd floor where Soil Baker, the place I wanted to visit most, is located. On the 2nd floor, there is Soil Baker, which sells ceramics; Trolls Paper, which newly opened in the space where Gallery Mosoon used to be (selling stationery); and the pajama brand Jos Lounge.

Shin-ah Memorial Hall Floor Directory
  • 3F: Gajungsic Fabric (Fabric lifestyle shop)
  • 2F: Soil Baker (Ceramics), Trolls Paper (Stationery), Jos Lounge (Homewear)
  • 1F / G: La Palma, Odd Haus, Le Pul (Cafe & Restaurant)
Trolls Paper 
  • Address: Room 203, 2F, Shin-ah Memorial Hall, 33 Jeongdong-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul
  • Hours: Tue – Fri 12:00 – 19:00, Sat – Sun 12:00 – 18:30 / Closed on Mondays
  • Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/trollspaper 
  • Map: Naver Map(Recommended for navigation in Korea)

As soon as I went up to the 2nd floor, Trolls Paper caught my eye first, so I went in. It was a newly opened stationery brand, and I remember looking around the space while eating a chocolate given by a staff member. If you go all the way to the back, you can experience various fountain pens, and it was such a fun experience that it made me want to take out the fountain pen I have at home again. I plan to visit again at the end of the year or the beginning of the new year for a new diary.

Soil Baker 

Soil Baker was the main reason I visited the Shin-ah Memorial Hall building. Since I usually only saw and purchased their items online, I wanted to see the full line of ceramics in person. Not only the cups and plates, but there were also many lifestyle goods to buy as gifts, making it a space with a pleasant and comfortable atmosphere that was a joy to explore.

Gajungsic Fabric (가정식 패브릭) 

After seeing a sign near the stairs indicating that there is a fabric lifestyle shop called Gajungsic Fabric on the 3rd floor, I went up one more floor. I was able to see a small solo exhibition titled “A journey in textile: Floating Threads,” and look around not only clothing but also various lifestyle goods made using fabric.

La Palma

Located deep inside the 1st floor, it is a hidden gem of a small lifestyle shop. It was a place I remembered by name after seeing it on Instagram, and the vintage lifestyle goods were each so beautiful that I found myself eyeing them. Both the lifestyle goods and the scenery seen through the window made the space feel incredibly transportive.

It might be a good idea to walk through the building floor by floor starting from the top: 3F Gajungsic Fabric — 2F Trolls Paper / Soil Baker / Jos Lounge — 1F La Palma.

Odd Haus 
Le Pul 

Finally, on the G floor and right next to the building are the restaurant Odd Haus and the cafe Le Pul, famous for its sandwiches. I wanted to include information about these places as I had visited them before the shops on the upper floors. On a nice day, if you enjoy coffee and a sandwich at Le Pul’s outdoor seating or have a memorable, atmospheric meal at Odd Haus as it gets dark, I think it will be a truly romantic day in Seoul.

Safe travels, Soy Kim

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